Rubbing 37’s, what is the best solution?

[terrynsd]

I am experiencing some rubbing on my front fender wells when I’m wheeling. It’s bad enough that I have had to get out and reattach it a couple times.
Currently I’m running the Icon 2.5 and the Icon UCA’s. It’s a Wildtrak but I wheel without the sway bar connected.
What my question is: Do I just put the bump stops in and limit the travel, can I add a little bit of lift with a puck and keep the travel, or is it possible to get more clearance with a new wheel well? I saw DV8 has an aluminum inner wheel that states it has more clearance but I’m not sure if that’s a good idea either.
Anyone have any thoughts or recommendations?
Thanks
Terry

 

[Dusty]

If I were you I would install the up-travel limiters from Icon. Those coilovers were designed to get the most travel possible, both in up-travel and down-travel, without pushing the rest of the factory components (steering links, CV's) beyond their safe operational limits. The up-travel was designed to accomodate a 35" tire, which is what every Sasquatch-equipped Bronco came with and what most are running even with aftermarket tires. The bump spacers are sold precisely for those running 37's, to keep the tire from getting into the fender and wheel well on full compression.

If you add a top-hat spacer (or a puck as you call it), you run the risk of over-extending your CV joints at full droop. Icon recommends 0mm offset wheels when running 37's (stock Sasquatch wheels are +30mm offset) but this likely wouldn't solve your issue as the tires wouldn't tuck up inside the wheel wells as well due to the wider track width. If you are dead set against running the up-travel limiters you will have to look at ways to clearance the body panels through aftermarket fenders, inner fenders, flare deletes, etc.

 

[terrynsd]

Thank you so much! I’m a bit new to this stuff and there are so many things to consider I am trying to do the least stupid one haha. So to be sure you are talking about these little guys?

 

[Dusty]

View attachment 2030Thank you so much! I’m a bit new to this stuff and there are so many things to consider I am trying to do the least stupid one haha. So to be sure you are talking about these little guys?

Yes but there are several that look the same and I don't know the thicknesses off the top of my head. Make sure you get the correct part number for Bronco front and rear. It is listed on the product page for the coilovers. It takes a different one for front versus rear.

 

[BadSquatch]

I agree with @Dusty you don't want to add a "puck lift", that's for sure. Another option that might help is the JKS Max Clearance Kit.

 

[terrynsd]

I agree with @Dusty you don't want to add a "puck lift", that's for sure. Another option that might help is the JKS Max Clearance Kit.

thanks, I decided to go with the bump stops

 

[KermitBronco]

From my research, it all depends on what tires you're running. I'm running 37" Trail Grapplers x 12.5" on "0" off-set rims. They are noticeably larger than most other 37" tires. The worst of my rubbing was on the frame trying to turn. I had some vertically as well, but the real issue was that I couldn't fully turn (requiring 5 point turns on Poison Spider, etc.). The solution was JKS Max Clearance Kit which solved everything and now I have full lock with no rubbing. TIP: be sure to keep the parts your remove. If you sell your rig, you can weld them back on and sell it fully street legal (technically, you're not supposed to remove what the kits has you do). Hope this helps.

I also had rubbing vertically and have temporarily used a 3" bodylift. Waiting on new heavy-duty springs from Eibach and then will remove the bodylft which has admittedly been scary on some off-camber trails! I agree with @Dusty - they're inexpensive but a last resort and noticeably raise the center of gravity on 6g Broncos which are already compromised on off-camber trails.