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Coco's Build Thread

June 3, 2013

Getting ready for the Big Bear Bronco Bash and I was having a hard time getting all my crap tied down so I had time for one more addition to the cage. I drew up these "Tie-Down Gussets" and had them cut out on the laser at work. Added them to the foot plates at the back and at the B-pillars and now I have a place to hook some straps.

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June 3, 2013

The last big thing I wanted to get done before BBBBB was to get a rear bumper on it. I needed some attachment points back there because we sometimes get a Jeep or two on the trail with us and those usually need a yank :). anyhow I only had a day to bang it out so I made a very simple pre-runner style bumper very similar to the one I built for the front a while back. The tow points are strong but I thing the ends need more bracing so Ill just try not to back them into a rock until I can finish it up :)

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November 4, 2013

Well I hadn't touched Coco much at all since coming back from Pismo in July. This weekend I finally had a chance to finish a couple of little projects on it. First thing I did was replaced the worn out F150 tie rod and drag link with a BC Broncos heim steering setup. I'd had this sitting on my shelf for years, finally got around to using it.

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Next thing I had to do was replace one of my fuel lines, which had turned into a soaker hose:

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Some have said this was due to the new fuel forumlations. Who knows. That hose held up a good 10 years though, so I can't complain too much I suppose. Anyhow I figured I'd just make a new one so I went rifling through my hose box...

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Turns out I had one already made up that fit just right. 10 minutes, problem solved :)

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November 4, 2013

Next thing I did was finish up the install of a new Buckaroo hood from Wild Horses 4X4. I had actually hung the hood on the hinges a few weeks back, but hadn't gotten around to installing the hood pins and gas springs (hood shocks) until this weekend.

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Both the pins and the hood shocks would be a bit of a challenge since I don't have the stock inner fender and core support that the supplied brackets are made to bolt to. In both cases I had to do some fabrication. I started with the hood pins.

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I know this is elementary for many on here, but I figured I'd post some photos of the step-by-step process for anyone who's never done a set of these and wants to see what it takes. Disclaimer: I'm a sloppy mechanic and my work isn't the best looking LOL...anyhow, start out by figuring out where you want to place the urethane grommets for the hood pins. On a Bronco with a stock core support, a natural place to mount the pins is where the hood bumpers mount on that little triangular piece at the corner of the core support and inner fender. I don't have that so would have to fabricate my own pin mount. That left me some lee-way on where to locate it but I still needed it to be in a good spot to fabricate a simple bracket to mount the pin to my tubular core support. With no inner fenders and a tubular core support its easy to poke your head inside the fender to see up in there to take measurements and mark things, with the hood closed. So for me the first step was to mark where I wanted the pin to come through, and drill a small pilot hole.

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Follow that with the correct size hole saw for the urethane grommet.

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Drop the grommet in, then drill for the supplied stainless steel button head screws, using the grommet itself as the drill guide.

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Install the hardware and voila. I did find out that the stainless steel button heads supplied with the hood pin kit are just a tad too short for use on the Wild Horses fiberglass hood. There's an extra layer of reinforcing fiberglass on the underside so its pretty thick there. The hardware supplied is probably intended for use with sheet metal and thinner fiberglass racing skin style hoods.

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Next to mount the pins underneath...
 
November 4, 2013

I'm actually doing this backwards from what many of you would do. Like I said if you have the stock core support and can mount the pins where the hood bumpers were, you'd install those first, and let that dictate where the holes need to be in the hood for the grommets. But I'm doing it the other way around because I had a little leeway on the placement of the pins, so I installed the grommets first then made brackets underneath to hold the pins where they needed to be in order to match the grommet placement.

Anyhow, again this may be 101 for most on here but I thought I'd take some photos and show the steps for anyone who's never tackled a simple fabrication project. Some of these tips may be useful for other projects where a bracket or tab is needed, not just specifically for hood pins. Again my disclaimer: I'm not the best mechanic or fabricator, many on here can do a much nicer job. Especially when we get to the welding---let's face it my welds suck. But anyhow for anyone interested, here are the steps I usually take for a simple fabrication job like this.

The first thing I usually do is make a cardboard template. I like to use manila file folders because they're stiff enough to hold their shape but thin enough to easily cut. I took some very raw measurements underneath where the hood pin needed to mount, drew it out on the folder and cut it out. I left everything a little too long so I could do some further trimming later.

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Using cardboard you can bend it the same as you intend to bend the final sheet metal piece.

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Up under the hood, I placed the hood pin through the hole in the cardboard bracket to see how everything fits up. Looks like the flanges are a little long and need some trimming...

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Using a Sharpie you can mark it right in place.

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A little more trimming with the scissors and we're just about close enough.

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Once the cardboard template is how we want it, trace it on to the sheet metal. In this case I'm using 1/8" plate.

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I like to use a pneumatic cut-off tool. An electric 4" angle grinder with cut-off blade works as well. If you have access to a metal bandsaw that's a great tool for cutting out brackets like this.

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I don't have a brake at the house for making nice bends, so I use the cut-off tool to score the sheetmetal on the inside of the bend.

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Before bending the flanges I drilled out the hole for the pin. Its easier to clamp the piece down for drilling while its still flat.

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Continues...
 
November 4, 2013

...I have an assortment of aluminum and steel blocks that I can use as anvils when shaping metal. This small aluminum block was just right for this job. I simply clamped the piece over it, with the scored bend-lines down, along the edges of the block, then used a hammer to tap the flanges down into place.

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Now test-fit the metal bracket in place, to see if it fit as well as the cardboard template did...

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After a little more fitting, bending and trimming, I finally had both sides just right, then burned them in.

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Pay no mind to the ragged remnants of the old hood pin mounts I had cut off, from my old hood. I'll smooth those out later LOL...

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November 4, 2013

Last thing to do was install the hood shocks. Again my lack of inner fenders put me at a disadvantage, as the kit comes with some really easy to bolt-on brackets to attach the lower end of the hood shocks to your inner fender.

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So once again I turned to the cut-off wheel, grinders and welder and made my own. I won't bore you with the step-by-step this time. But the finished product works great! Again, no laughing at my shitty welds LOL...(those are just tacked in place for now anyhow, until I can pull that piece out to get a better angle on it with the mig gun)

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August 4, 2014

Time for some more "Coco's Mods!" A while back I said I was working toward getting it painted. I still am, but there are quite a few things I need to get done before that happens. Painting it is like the last domino, and I need to knock a few more over before I get to it. For instance, I want to powder coat the cage at the same time, so anything left that I still need to get done to the cage is one of those dominos. Mounting the seats is one of them, so I tackled that this weekend.

I had an old ratty set of Beards that I picked up second-hand from a friend, and got many good years out of them although they were a little tight for me. So I recently picked up a new set of PRP's, their "Daily Driver" model with low side boltsters for ease of entry/exit. And I had them made 1" wider than stock. I wanted to mount them directly to the cage rather than bolted to the floor. So I started by getting out the bender, notcher and chop saw and fabbing up a seat mount section for the cage. Here the pieces are just held in with ratchet straps before welding.

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If this is your first time in this thread, you can go back to page 1 and follow the build process of the cage, plus a few other mods.

At my work (Poison Spyder) we sell these threaded seatbelt bungs, which I used for the 4-point harnesses I bought from PRP along with the seats. They're pretty simple to install, just drill or hole-saw the tubes:

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My hole saw was just a smidge undersized so I used the carbide-tip rotary file to tune them up a bit.

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Then welded them up. So glad I didn't try to do this with the tubes already welded in!

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Put the puzzle back together and weld it all up.

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Looks like I didn't take any shots of the seat rails. They were giving me a bitch of a time so I forgot to get in-progress shots of them. But here it is with the seats and lap belts all bolted in.

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I still have to make some sort of mount for the Winters shifter. I'm debating whether to do something simple or spend the time to fab a nice console. I also need to add the horizontal bars behind the seats for the shoulder belts. Those will have to wait for another day though.

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December 8, 2014

So after I built the seat mounts into the cage structure, next thing I needed to do was a center console to mount my Winters shifter. While you're at it, may as well add some cup holders right? Also, I wanted the console to be a separate piece that was removable, since its already a bitch getting to the seat mount bolts. It would be almost impossible with the console in there. Anyhow here's how it turned out:

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For anyone curious how I made it, here are some WIP photos. Started by measuring out, cutting and drilling the top plate. I wanted it to also be removable from the console frame.

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The cup holders are 3-1/2" exhaust tubing. Used the hole saw rems for the bottoms. I wish I could have made them a little deeper but the cable assembly for the shifter is in the way.

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The cup holders are about the right size for a standard soda can with one of those stiff foam coozies. The thinner neoprene coozies rattle around in there a little.

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A cold barleypop or two always helps.

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Test fitting the shifter and soda can. Here you see what I mean about the depth of the cup holders. That's all I could get.

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December 8, 2014

Making weld-nuts so the top plate will be removable from the frame.

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Starting to work on the tube frame for the console. I wanted it to match the cage so the front and rear short tubes are 1-3/4 like the cage structure, with 1" tubes on the long sides.

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Good thing I'm grinding these ugly things down LOL...

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Top part of frame and top plate done.

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I remember when you had to actually be in the 805 to buy this...

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December 8, 2014

Starting on the legs and tube clamps. The cage's seat tubes are 1-3/4" DOM, so short pieces of 2" X .120 DOM fit over it like a glove.

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Leaned the legs forward slightly to move the shifter as far forward as I could without interfering with the T-case (J) shifter.

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All done!

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Time to install. Held on with hose clamps.

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Trying to figure out my winters shifter install now. I like the way you mounted that with the space between the seats. I'm guessing I'll have to build something similar, but I'm hesitant to cut up the plastic molded body the shifter comes in.
 

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