Getting closer to working on the front. Which was the original point of this thread!
Rotors came with painted wear surfaces, so I didn't bother to keep my paint off of them since I'll have to clean off all of the paint anyway. Technically the rear wheel bearing run in diff lube, but I've been...
How many are out there getting wet?
I'd stay the F___ OUT of the shortcut between Mule/Phillips and Doran/Odessa. That stuff gets bottomless and slimy like greased owl snot when wet. It's worse than a not so dry lakebed. BT, DT.
No, it isn't an unbroken run. I can't tell you the years specifically, but I know that there were a couple years where it didn't happen. But I didn't think it was that close to the same age either!
Got this far before the rain shut me down.
Part of the delay was that I had to build this first:
Not the most ideal location for that, but the hole in the 1/4 panel had me tightly constrained.
For the FSB I bought a pump from Quantum Fuel. It was a complete upgraded pump/sender assembly built around a Walbro 255LHP pump. As a bonus they're local to me, but the Walbro pump may not work for you. Might call them and see what they have to suggest.
I have the D60 back, but it's now too close to my annual NV trip to make the changes and have them fully sorted out in time. I've put this on hold until after I get back, which will be early October. It hurts though, having this done in time for this trip was the goal.
Put it up on jack stands under the rear axle housing (pointed OUT of the garage!) and run it up to those speeds? OR put a Go-Pro under there (maybe with more than one location option) and take it for a drive?
If you actually plot the pinion angle vs. suspension travel you'll find that the ladder bar, even the ladder bar with a shackle at the frame end doesn't follow it correctly. Which is to say that the ladder bar is forcing the springs to 'wrap' up in extension and 'down' in compression. Without a...
Thanks for the pics, now I know what I missed. I so wanted to make this run. Rep the OJB's and all that. Just wasn't in the cards.
Do I see OG's Terry M & Mike B. there? Man, now I really wish that I could've made it.
Are your u-bolts tight?
Are both of the pinion angle shims still there?
How is the rest of the drive-shaft? Slip still tight?
I can't think of anything other than wrap that would cause contact like that if everything else is good.
Most, but not all of the other frequencies listed are desert racing or competition related. If you ever go to see a desert race you'll likely want that promoter's main freq. For most that means that you'll want the "WX-MAN" unless you're at a Best in the Desert event where you'll want the "BITD"...
It does work fine with tap water, but your cooling system won't like the minerals in tap water.
Prior to this product becoming available we used water soluble oil with straight water to do nearly the same thing. I've no doubt that this product is a better option.
Every time I see something like this I am amazed that the most obvious and immediate solution to the problem is either ignored or not thought of.
Turn the ignition key off!
Years ago when Toyota was having a run-away engines problem there was a Camry full of people, driven by an off duty CHP...
Wayne, that forced me into educating myself further. I just drained, flushed, and refilled the FSB's system and I had noticed that "normal" green coolant was not as abundant as it used to be, but I'd just figured that was due to the CV-19. Now I'm thinking that I should have done more research...